tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37614538523585996452024-02-19T23:46:41.615-08:00The Outside OutAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13808987016992949474noreply@blogger.comBlogger71125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3761453852358599645.post-48503622437826157482015-08-03T19:43:00.002-07:002015-09-01T19:49:22.306-07:00Robson Southface approach update. Lots of emails for the KMZ, here is an actual <a href="https://www.blogger.com/%3Ca%20href=http://www.filedropper.com/robson%3E%3Cimg%20src=http://www.filedropper.com/download_button.png%20width=127%20height=145%20border=0/%3E%3C/a%3E%3Cbr%20/%3E%3Cdiv%20style=font-size:9px;font-family:Arial,%20Helvetica,%20sans-serif;width:127px;font-color:#44a854;%3E%20%3Ca%20href=http://www.filedropper.com%20%3Eupload%20files%20free%3C/a%3E%3C/div%3E" target="_blank">KMZ</a> of the trail we helped along last Fall. It strarts just off the main trail as to not lure people in. It has been flagged in blue but watch out for vorg flagging. Once your on the trail you should be able to keep on it and it will be a breez.<br />
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**** Note KMZ link broken. Does anyone know a good file hosting site? Email me for file for now, ReinerThoni@gmail.com<br />
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**Another thing to consider is to help keep the trail hidden from the main trail as its an animal trail and not an official trail. We don't want heavy tourist traffic heading up that way and impact should be kept to a bare minimum allowing this animal corridor to remain healthy. <br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">Thanks Andreas for the KMZ - </span><br />
<div a854="" font-color:="" helvetica="" sans-serif="" style="font-family: Arial,; font-size: 9px;" width:127px="">
<a href="http://www.filedropper.com/">upload files free</a> </div>
And Ron, Jess, Rudi and Karen for helping make life easier. <br />
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Happy climbing!<br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13808987016992949474noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3761453852358599645.post-62553792095042273312015-04-16T08:24:00.003-07:002015-04-16T08:24:37.995-07:00Mt. Logan Humming Bird Ridge Video Part 2. <iframe frameborder="0" height="335" scrolling="no" src="http://www.epictv.com/player/embed-player/601645?title&seriestitle" width="600"></iframe>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13808987016992949474noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3761453852358599645.post-57361528854692986182015-04-15T16:17:00.001-07:002015-04-15T16:26:53.836-07:00Mt. Logan Humming Bird Ridge Video Part 1<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Its been a long time since posting but after a winter of building a home and only getting out to ski once I'm starting to get the itch again. To start off from the absence here is part one of our Humming bird ridge climb. Its high def so let it load and enjoy the views of the worlds largest non polar ice cap.<br />
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<iframe frameborder="0" height="335" scrolling="no" src="http://www.epictv.com/player/embed-player/601694?title&seriestitle" width="600"></iframe><br />
Part two is comming soon and then a post with some updated beta on a freshly cut path on the Mt. Robson south face approach.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13808987016992949474noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3761453852358599645.post-43832620645098807622014-07-31T19:46:00.001-07:002014-08-01T15:25:01.126-07:00Mt. Logan - Hummingbird Ridge<div style="padding-left: 1em; text-indent: -1em;">
<i>":There are strange things done in the midnight sun</i>
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<i>By the men who moil for gold;</i>
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<i>The Arctic trails have their secret tales</i>
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<i>That would make your blood run cold;"</i><br />
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<i><i><span class="author"><a href="http://www.poetryfoundation.org/bio/robert-w-service">Robert W. Service</a></span></i></i><br />
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<i><i><span class="author">Since high school these words from Robert W. Service have intrigued me but up there they really resonated. Days and days without sleep along side a constant barrage of objective danger had me feeling strange. </span></i></i><br />
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<i><i><span class="author">This route has a history, and with the moments of glory heavily outnumbered by darker history it has also built up allot of myth and legend. </span></i>The first assent was 20 years before I was born, it took close to a month on route to complete in a committing fashion they referred to as the "forward retreat". Since then many have died and turned around trying to repeat it.</i><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OT7sC9ZoOiY/U9rtGW8FTmI/AAAAAAAACf8/wkVEZXGPoyU/s1600/davec.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OT7sC9ZoOiY/U9rtGW8FTmI/AAAAAAAACf8/wkVEZXGPoyU/s1600/davec.jpg" height="200" width="145" /></a></div>
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<i>Dave <a href="http://www.barryblanchard.ca/northtwin" target="_blank">Cheesmond</a> was an inspiration especially growing up in the Canadian Rockies</i><i> where his commitment to a sense of adventure lead to some of the most remarkable alpine routes of our time. Attempting this route I had no delusions of being a better climber then Cheemond, just hope for good enough cards.</i><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-f87Ad3V27Uw/U9rqHpA5IbI/AAAAAAAACfw/W5sETK8L2Pc/s1600/2T7A8686.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-f87Ad3V27Uw/U9rqHpA5IbI/AAAAAAAACfw/W5sETK8L2Pc/s1600/2T7A8686.jpg" height="438" width="640" /></a></div>
<i>After a few cornice failers we headed off the ridge to camp under a serac, I had a moment while realizing we were sleeping very close to where Cheesmond and </i><span class="st">Catherine Freer lay. The moment wasn't formed from fear, it was a realization of why we do these strange things. So as we lay preparing our minds and body's for the mile long corniced ridge to come I was very happy to be with awesome friends in one of the most beautiful places on earth. </span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-P8HlvoUYA-A/U9r6WkTuveI/AAAAAAAACgM/7WHaIO9tnbY/s1600/reiner+summit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-P8HlvoUYA-A/U9r6WkTuveI/AAAAAAAACgM/7WHaIO9tnbY/s1600/reiner+summit.jpg" height="270" width="640" /></a></div>
<span class="st">To read the story, learn more about my friends and see the pictures Mark Smiley wrote a beautiful piece on his blog <a href="http://smileysproject.blogspot.ca/">http://smileysproject.blogspot.ca/</a> and will be producing a video series this fall.</span> Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13808987016992949474noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3761453852358599645.post-66520265499785088232014-05-01T10:15:00.000-07:002014-05-01T17:28:56.705-07:00Mt. Brazeau SnowBiking/Skimountaineering - VideoSitting east from the heart of the Canadian Rockies Brazeau at 11483 ft / 3500 m offers some spectacular views. We took the chance with some cold temps to do it in a day with snow bikes. Must say following Dana on a bike is no easy task unless of course the crust deteriorates and he sinks. It gave me a chance to shoot more video. Here is a short film from yesterday April 30th 2014.<br />
For best quality have HD on. <br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="281" mozallowfullscreen="" src="//player.vimeo.com/video/93452512" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="500"></iframe><br />
Camera - Dana Ruddy, Reiner Thoni<br />
Edit - Reiner Thoni<br />
Music: The Black Keys- Little Black Submarines<br />
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free to embed.<br />
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theoutsideout.blogspot.caAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13808987016992949474noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3761453852358599645.post-25004591108007729092014-04-13T20:12:00.000-07:002014-04-14T11:16:37.713-07:00Billy GoatingWas out for a mini traverse over the weekend heading up a ridge and ran
into this guy, he was strutting his stuff! Such beautiful and majestic
animals, here is some shots of the true <span class="st">mountaineers.</span><span class="st"><br /></span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-p_ueJqzUI1g/U0tD6gWz-aI/AAAAAAAACT8/b70VYylEm0U/s1600/goat44.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nbn9j0vDyUA/U0tDvghzlCI/AAAAAAAACTk/_zDngmc4yoc/s1600/goat3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nbn9j0vDyUA/U0tDvghzlCI/AAAAAAAACTk/_zDngmc4yoc/s1600/goat3.jpg" height="422" width="640" /></a><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-p_ueJqzUI1g/U0tD6gWz-aI/AAAAAAAACT8/b70VYylEm0U/s1600/goat44.jpg" height="414" width="640" />So much power....!</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vESsTWBICqI/U0tD_z-3fpI/AAAAAAAACUE/dNiFLMj8XZQ/s1600/goat5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vESsTWBICqI/U0tD_z-3fpI/AAAAAAAACUE/dNiFLMj8XZQ/s1600/goat5.jpg" height="422" width="640" /></a></div>
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The expression on his face was priceless..! Had me laughing quietly.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rOcMmWI78m8/U0tDjSfVcjI/AAAAAAAACTU/Hm3M45CUEiE/s1600/goat.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rOcMmWI78m8/U0tDjSfVcjI/AAAAAAAACTU/Hm3M45CUEiE/s1600/goat.jpg" height="446" width="640" /></a></div>
Always curious.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1FgwlTrqpCE/U0tDasC4GeI/AAAAAAAACTM/EznPuKFn-6c/s1600/billie.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1FgwlTrqpCE/U0tDasC4GeI/AAAAAAAACTM/EznPuKFn-6c/s1600/billie.jpg" height="414" width="640" /></a></div>
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..</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tDbSrnn-WLY/U0tDm1KHvSI/AAAAAAAACTc/bGUoWhjxBZE/s1600/goat2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tDbSrnn-WLY/U0tDm1KHvSI/AAAAAAAACTc/bGUoWhjxBZE/s1600/goat2.jpg" height="420" width="640" /></a></div>
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Finally he had enough and decided to go walk over and sit in the sun.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-C98ULDfMbEo/U0tETb9VhzI/AAAAAAAACUU/Y_mHg6shiQE/s1600/walkaway.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-C98ULDfMbEo/U0tETb9VhzI/AAAAAAAACUU/Y_mHg6shiQE/s1600/walkaway.jpg" height="354" width="640" /></a></div>
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See if you can Spot him,</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AgmoKkpizmw/U0tEFl_MlSI/AAAAAAAACUM/fUKikmpcpvY/s1600/goat6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AgmoKkpizmw/U0tEFl_MlSI/AAAAAAAACUM/fUKikmpcpvY/s1600/goat6.jpg" height="416" width="640" /></a></div>
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Beautiful day of moving around in the mountains with 3 friends, majestic goat, truly awesome human friend, and dog. </div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qJ3RfprPaz0/U0tRWsCRRlI/AAAAAAAACUs/9S4VZC3NiAY/s1600/pluto.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qJ3RfprPaz0/U0tRWsCRRlI/AAAAAAAACUs/9S4VZC3NiAY/s1600/pluto.jpg" height="394" width="640" /></a></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13808987016992949474noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3761453852358599645.post-40795034386384962572014-04-06T17:02:00.001-07:002014-04-07T11:15:20.726-07:00North Great Divide Traverse - Yellowhead to Robson Last winter was spent chasing the world cup in Europe and racing some
amazing classics. This winter I did a few of the bigger races in North
America <a href="http://www.skintrack.com/skimo-racing/reports-results/2014-dogtooth-dash-report/" target="_blank">(race info @ skintrack)</a> but most of the time was spent living at home in Valemount
enjoying the beautiful quiet Canadian wilderness. Over the last five days I felt very privileged to be able to explore a new route with Dana Ruddy and Sean Elliott. We started from Mt. Yellowhead right off the highway and headed north along the great divide to Mt. Robson. Its truly an epitome of how vast our wilderness is when gems like this are waiting to be linked up on skis. <br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eryly1Dx6Zc/U0CEFqyaF_I/AAAAAAAACOw/w00zEbuIRMc/s1600/nrt2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eryly1Dx6Zc/U0CEFqyaF_I/AAAAAAAACOw/w00zEbuIRMc/s1600/nrt2.jpg" height="400" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8nziNimddko/U0DQiucDHNI/AAAAAAAACSk/4G7eCeJXDMo/s1600/route.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8nziNimddko/U0DQiucDHNI/AAAAAAAACSk/4G7eCeJXDMo/s1600/route.jpg" height="376" width="640" /></a></div>
Traverse info: <br />
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Distance: 90km <br />
Elevation Gain: 5239m<br />
Elevation Loss: 5458m<br />
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The plan was to head in with 5 days worth of food and see where we ended up. With an unsettled snow pack we knew the original route plan would be to aggressive for the current conditions so it was a question of making it through safely, staying high, having great views and good skiing.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jRbg8mYK-UQ/U0CdYy3YnVI/AAAAAAAACPM/wOvq8MlWbv8/s1600/nrt1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jRbg8mYK-UQ/U0CdYy3YnVI/AAAAAAAACPM/wOvq8MlWbv8/s1600/nrt1.jpg" height="424" width="640" /></a></div>
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Right away we were in Dana and Sean's play ground and you could see there old tracks shooting across the landscape. Its a good snow belt north of Yellowhead mountain, makes for some great accessible skiing and would be an ideal spot for a hut. <br />
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-O0AADwbt-Xk/U0CjSqxDcqI/AAAAAAAACPs/X8LqNwFeot0/s1600/nrt3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-V0BgZCa0xpY/U0Civa6rzVI/AAAAAAAACPk/jM35HX8qbB0/s1600/nrt7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-V0BgZCa0xpY/U0Civa6rzVI/AAAAAAAACPk/jM35HX8qbB0/s1600/nrt7.jpg" height="424" width="640" /></a><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-O0AADwbt-Xk/U0CjSqxDcqI/AAAAAAAACPs/X8LqNwFeot0/s1600/nrt3.jpg" height="410" width="640" /><br />
After some fun laps off the ridges heading north we started to head into the goods and out of the range of day tours.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oypkZVrs1xw/U0CkvfZKAGI/AAAAAAAACP4/ClvIC1LnRlE/s1600/nrt4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oypkZVrs1xw/U0CkvfZKAGI/AAAAAAAACP4/ClvIC1LnRlE/s1600/nrt4.jpg" height="468" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sulli Pass</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Searching for camps in the BC side we found old horse outfitters camps, Sean's interest in the history of these old camps started to rub off on us and before long we were all looking for old blazes and food cash's.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kCC9sIHmWTk/U0Cp45Ypd1I/AAAAAAAACQI/g_r0xnpRw9M/s1600/nrta3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kCC9sIHmWTk/U0Cp45Ypd1I/AAAAAAAACQI/g_r0xnpRw9M/s1600/nrta3.jpg" height="424" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Old food cash</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Although I found it very interesting what caught my attention the most was some of the beautiful timber almost artistically placed in a battle against the forces of the avalanches. Perfectly pruned like a kings court.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lNEx0xj6sq0/U0Cs97uS4MI/AAAAAAAACQc/rICPpCtQW2Y/s1600/nrt6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lNEx0xj6sq0/U0Cs97uS4MI/AAAAAAAACQc/rICPpCtQW2Y/s1600/nrt6.jpg" height="424" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Helen Pass</td></tr>
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Pass after pass we kept forging forward to the crux of the trip Pluto pass. Its a high pass up upright creek following a one sided canyon (hence the name?) and then a massive ramp.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-29cMHYJcf-I/U0CtJfdcqwI/AAAAAAAACQk/sQGZG8JndoI/s1600/nrt9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-29cMHYJcf-I/U0CtJfdcqwI/AAAAAAAACQk/sQGZG8JndoI/s1600/nrt9.jpg" height="424" width="640" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-x1IfCJHfKmI/U0CwCpU9SCI/AAAAAAAACQw/YJsa5b17i0s/s1600/nrt8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-x1IfCJHfKmI/U0CwCpU9SCI/AAAAAAAACQw/YJsa5b17i0s/s1600/nrt8.jpg" height="424" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pluto Pass</td></tr>
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Topo's and Google Earth never gave any clear indications on whether or not the north side would go so the suspense built as we climbed. <br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Zd4ZFJyhWvQ/U0CyRxFYjGI/AAAAAAAACRM/snJedq438uc/s1600/nrta2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Zd4ZFJyhWvQ/U0CyRxFYjGI/AAAAAAAACRM/snJedq438uc/s1600/nrta2.jpg" height="424" width="640" /></a></div>
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Lucky enough a beautiful protected north facing shot allowed us to sneak through the cliffs and down towards step creek.<br />
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From here we made our way up onto the pass below step glacier and found a massive ledge that brought us about 600m above <span class="st">Adolphus Cabin where we found a powder caulked shoot that brought us right down to valley bottom. <i> </i></span><br />
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Taking a break at <span class="st">Adolphus we had our sights set on spending some time at the soon to be taken down Hargreaves Cabin. For allot of people it has a special place in there hearts and it was nice to pay tribute and say hi to the lonely pack rat that lives in the beams. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IQVeEGThaOI/U0DEpmvgpQI/AAAAAAAACSI/ySEyf39hSeU/s1600/nrta5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IQVeEGThaOI/U0DEpmvgpQI/AAAAAAAACSI/ySEyf39hSeU/s1600/nrta5.jpg" height="424" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="st">Hargreaves</span></td></tr>
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Now was the cruisy and always neck kinking/jaw dropping tour around Robson back to the highway. <br />
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Smelly, dirty, but elated we sat in the ditch hitching. It was what we were craving to feel like wild animals. The only problem is its hard to get accepted back into society. Vehicle after vehicle we were turned down until luckily our friend Shawn Van Asten coming form the other direction spotted the poor souls in the ditch and went out of his way even feeding us chips and muffins to bring us back to the start. Were indebted,<br />
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Now is the recovery beer, shower, burgars, shower, beer, beer routine at least for the weekend... Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13808987016992949474noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3761453852358599645.post-62954574329105824022013-12-08T14:38:00.000-08:002013-12-19T20:28:04.491-08:00Central Chile - Cajon del Maipo Skimountaineering + beta<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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San Jose a 5800m volcan and its neighbor Marmolejo 6100m was our fist stop in Chile.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zgQ8U8Prces/UqH6aPeHwqI/AAAAAAAAB9w/O0vmPdkZJLo/s1600/San+Jose.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="368" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zgQ8U8Prces/UqH6aPeHwqI/AAAAAAAAB9w/O0vmPdkZJLo/s640/San+Jose.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">San Jose </td></tr>
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Our plan was to take advantage of the good snow coverage on this side of the range and see the area before heading over to Aconcagua? After that head south to see Patogonia..... There was a problem... We were going to "see" allot but its really hard to get the feelings of an area when all your doing is "seeing". The plan turned into a question. Why would we leave good skiing, good access, no crowds for the opposite when all it really had to offer was 800meters of height.? It just didn't add up and we just never left. :)<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HaYLpC-t-wY/UqH-UrbypJI/AAAAAAAAB-A/EedmEgMtaTc/s1600/mtns.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HaYLpC-t-wY/UqH-UrbypJI/AAAAAAAAB-A/EedmEgMtaTc/s640/mtns.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Marmolejo</td></tr>
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I never anticipated the vastness and dramatic features that would surround these volcanoes. The real story was that we didn't even have enough time for this one spot. Equipped with natural hot springs up both valleys and roads going close to 3000 meters it was dream like.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hfzMfOaEybs/UqE2XPvB5yI/AAAAAAAAB9g/73h8t0BFDBI/s1600/hotspring.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hfzMfOaEybs/UqE2XPvB5yI/AAAAAAAAB9g/73h8t0BFDBI/s640/hotspring.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hotsprings</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;"></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-q4KOu37s1MA/UqNS-h-1_UI/AAAAAAAACCQ/vZ_9xjlk74Y/s1600/hydro2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="458" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-q4KOu37s1MA/UqNS-h-1_UI/AAAAAAAACCQ/vZ_9xjlk74Y/s640/hydro2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lagoona</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-O9cSGJffyzg/UqNftUoj6UI/AAAAAAAACDM/T6kz0-ol2JM/s1600/bigpeak.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-O9cSGJffyzg/UqNftUoj6UI/AAAAAAAACDM/T6kz0-ol2JM/s640/bigpeak.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beautiful traverse threading these two peaks.</td></tr>
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Leading up to this area we spent a week in transit in and out of big citys/airports and to come up here was really that "born again kind of feeling."<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-u91U0J5V4jw/UqIJAodSj1I/AAAAAAAAB-g/CZkdBUQH9e8/s1600/bornagain.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-u91U0J5V4jw/UqIJAodSj1I/AAAAAAAAB-g/CZkdBUQH9e8/s640/bornagain.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">.....</td></tr>
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San Jose was first on the list we had never been that high and were curious to see how the altitude would effect us.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zVOszGXmGBo/UqIUrRfQg0I/AAAAAAAAB-8/0zi5rhIKmGA/s1600/skiin.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zVOszGXmGBo/UqIUrRfQg0I/AAAAAAAAB-8/0zi5rhIKmGA/s640/skiin.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Karen on "the snow highway"</td></tr>
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We dug in at 3300 meters and contemplated whether or not it was possible to do the rest (2500 meters) and avoid heavy packs and a uncomfortable bivi up high. We can always turn around at any time. <br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jtrqWyxjB_c/UqISlOoB5lI/AAAAAAAAB-w/2ba5uPeUyaY/s1600/snowcave.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jtrqWyxjB_c/UqISlOoB5lI/AAAAAAAAB-w/2ba5uPeUyaY/s640/snowcave.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Z9HIr1JuN2U/UqTtpmmlLiI/AAAAAAAACG8/MZE_Jq8x0jY/s1600/skinup.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Z9HIr1JuN2U/UqTtpmmlLiI/AAAAAAAACG8/MZE_Jq8x0jY/s640/skinup.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
The fast moving clouds, a thin really blue sky all make for a much different feel but it wasn't until human balloons started floating up towards us and off to the summit that we really started to notice the spiritual energy. <br />
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6VeSaTyCvKw/UqIkRdb1TXI/AAAAAAAAB_M/phJsHZk4Jwk/s1600/ballonman.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="434" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6VeSaTyCvKw/UqIkRdb1TXI/AAAAAAAAB_M/phJsHZk4Jwk/s640/ballonman.jpg" width="640" /></a>It felt like a great day to go for it so with the suttle hints from the mountains (or more likely a poor girl that lost here balloon) I kept skinning the last 1300 meters to see what 5800 meters felt like. Easier said then done..... I knew with out proper acclimatization it would be hard and it was. As long as I felt good and had no headache or problems I kept going at it. 5000meters came the snow quality was not to be desired but still better then walking. The smell of sulfur clued that the top was close and by this time I was walking the last few meters on wind scoured rock. <br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qu6ybUrRTK0/UqIqnbb37QI/AAAAAAAAB_c/Yzx04zDlPxE/s1600/5000meters.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qu6ybUrRTK0/UqIqnbb37QI/AAAAAAAAB_c/Yzx04zDlPxE/s640/5000meters.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
It felt good to accomplish the physical effort but it would have had to be super amazing aesthetic skiing to go up there again. One thing that did catch my eye was some ice waterfall climbing at about 4000-4500 meters that could warrant a trip back up. <br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-l3VZ6FhFG9c/UqIxQv_f7KI/AAAAAAAAB_s/Oqzcn3XVcCc/s1600/icewater.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="414" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-l3VZ6FhFG9c/UqIxQv_f7KI/AAAAAAAAB_s/Oqzcn3XVcCc/s640/icewater.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
Silviculture workers get allot of opportunity to feel the suffer fest much like altitude dish's out but very
rarely get a chance to spring ski. Gloveless skiing on corn snow was our craving. The best elevations at this time (Oct/Nov) were 2400-4000 meters and we couldn't complain with camping in a much more hospitable elevation.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-y9ciAU4ZbZw/UqI5VliKJOI/AAAAAAAAB_8/hKnPhQKeuRI/s1600/mtn8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="412" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-y9ciAU4ZbZw/UqI5VliKJOI/AAAAAAAAB_8/hKnPhQKeuRI/s640/mtn8.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<img border="0" height="424" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yU53Fn_-ztc/UqI63SEh1NI/AAAAAAAACAI/3NMFeOUFydY/s640/mtn4.jpg" width="640" /> </div>
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We stayed here for weeks exploring valleys, peaks, coulairs, a few nice steep faces and even a couple traverses. In my head was a goal to never ski the same thing twice. It wasn't hard...</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dKD0GV3R5WA/UqNPlSYAlvI/AAAAAAAACB8/jQLF9SgWJNk/s1600/mtts.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dKD0GV3R5WA/UqNPlSYAlvI/AAAAAAAACB8/jQLF9SgWJNk/s640/mtts.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Every corner would bring new motivations, whats up there!, Whats over there!! does that go???<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-H3tNcGQ9QOw/UqNfdRC819I/AAAAAAAACDA/KT7Gc--X050/s1600/chii.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-H3tNcGQ9QOw/UqNfdRC819I/AAAAAAAACDA/KT7Gc--X050/s640/chii.jpg" width="504" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">yep</td></tr>
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When it was windy it seemed the best option was valley exploration and skiing lee sw slops.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rLHyvo4FLvw/UqNTVr4WJHI/AAAAAAAACCc/b_UbML2vd7k/s1600/mtrs.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rLHyvo4FLvw/UqNTVr4WJHI/AAAAAAAACCc/b_UbML2vd7k/s640/mtrs.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rVFm1NjsjmE/UqNXwiZzD1I/AAAAAAAACCs/6JJHBJYT4yU/s1600/rockglacier.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rVFm1NjsjmE/UqNXwiZzD1I/AAAAAAAACCs/6JJHBJYT4yU/s640/rockglacier.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Large Rock covered glaciers would stretch down the valleys sometimes acting like a giant maze to stay on snow.</td></tr>
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<img border="0" height="322" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nEdaIWOiHXA/UqNTKpNg9hI/AAAAAAAACCU/zONeAUqVg9w/s640/rang.jpg" width="640" /></div>
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Every now and then penitentes would poke up but being early in the season they were small enough to ski over. Smooth corn was very abundant. </div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bs_AOaqfzyk/UqJAi7Y8-GI/AAAAAAAACBQ/PqLxqTrsOFE/s1600/skiiwwe.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bs_AOaqfzyk/UqJAi7Y8-GI/AAAAAAAACBQ/PqLxqTrsOFE/s640/skiiwwe.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vVkVJ1ozuaI/UqNPoLZ86pI/AAAAAAAACCE/hcvJRwks7Ao/s1600/booter.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vVkVJ1ozuaI/UqNPoLZ86pI/AAAAAAAACCE/hcvJRwks7Ao/s640/booter.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-D3p_EVllcR0/UqNMNmLT18I/AAAAAAAACBo/q13tzFcCnws/s1600/slope.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-D3p_EVllcR0/UqNMNmLT18I/AAAAAAAACBo/q13tzFcCnws/s640/slope.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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One thing that ended up slamming us especially me was the combination of endless sunny days and high elevation. Over reaching was the name of the game but where water seeped out of the rocks would be micro climates to enjoy the spring and try to recoup. </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-U5lf7-Nd424/UqNrodn45sI/AAAAAAAACDY/0IqwGIJN1ZU/s1600/chilling.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-U5lf7-Nd424/UqNrodn45sI/AAAAAAAACDY/0IqwGIJN1ZU/s640/chilling.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The rock quality varied greatly and I was stunned to find rock that was actually worse then the Canadian Rockies, dangerous just to look at.... Luckily it was contained and regardless of quality all rock was very interesting and opened your eyes to how explosive these mountains can be. The rock below is called Tuff and is caused when the volcano
blasts rock, ash, magma and other materials from its vent, this ejecta travels through the air and falls back to
Earth in the area surrounding the volcano.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vlY_83iK7DA/UqNMT6khf8I/AAAAAAAACBs/xkAFzLTLNUc/s1600/rocks.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vlY_83iK7DA/UqNMT6khf8I/AAAAAAAACBs/xkAFzLTLNUc/s640/rocks.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sure wouldn't want to be around when these rocks came raining down. (most are much bigger then my fist)</td></tr>
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Luckily for the city of 4.5 million people down stream and those living on the volcano it has seen very little activity since Santiago was founded in the 1500's. Some scientists theorize that despite the lack of activity there is a possibility that it is close to an explosive eruptive cycle, with characteristics
similar to the eruption of Pinatubo (Philipines), where no eruptions had
occurred for 600 years. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-scLxsW8dJA4/UqJAWVEO9CI/AAAAAAAACBE/tFtUVeruqQc/s1600/sunset.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="412" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-scLxsW8dJA4/UqJAWVEO9CI/AAAAAAAACBE/tFtUVeruqQc/s640/sunset.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We only witnessed eruptions of color.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eDkylYYKCwI/UqNX-HdAiVI/AAAAAAAACCw/PI4ZEfZ7O_k/s1600/hotspring.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eDkylYYKCwI/UqNX-HdAiVI/AAAAAAAACCw/PI4ZEfZ7O_k/s640/hotspring.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Home base....</td></tr>
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Personally I was more worried about kissing bugs down lower in elevation and really felt comfortable in this beautiful place. That's not to say its with out challenges. High UV's and lots of wind at times will wear through the thickest of skins.<br />
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JaayjI1y3eU/UqSy16Nj_vI/AAAAAAAACEI/TgMtnHEPSrU/s1600/lizard.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="414" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JaayjI1y3eU/UqSy16Nj_vI/AAAAAAAACEI/TgMtnHEPSrU/s640/lizard.jpg" width="640" /></a> <b><span style="font-size: large;">Beta: <span style="font-size: x-small;">(what I gained anyways)</span></span></b><br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"> </span></span>Flight time to Santiago from Vancouver:</b> 14 hours + layovers (long haul) <br />
<b>Cost of living in Chile</b>: Slightly cheaper then Canada. Buying food at local markets highly recommended for fruit and produce. <br />
<b>Getting into the country:</b> No prep work necessary for trips under 90days you just have to pay $125 at customs to get in. (note different story for Argentina)<br />
<b>Camping:</b> Up in the high valleys you can camp anywhere for free. <br />
<b>Rental Car: </b>We rented a car for 41 days it cost us $1500 Canadian (note we didn't bother with getting excess insurance as it cost about the same as the excess ($1000) when renting for 41 days). I would recommend a 4x4. We really pushed the limits of where a car should go its really more suitable to a 4x4. Forging rivers lots of ditches on long rough gravel roads. However for accessing Volcan San Jose its totally doable with a car but if you want to get to the back of the valleys especially the north branch its rough. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4G2R6MHtEcM/UqTWOgygfDI/AAAAAAAACE4/ItoY_TzPX44/s1600/life.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4G2R6MHtEcM/UqTWOgygfDI/AAAAAAAACE4/ItoY_TzPX44/s640/life.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Camping at the river crossing so we could make a go for it in low water. (some how we made it the whole time with out getting stuck.)</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<b> Towns up Cajon del Maipo: </b>The last for stocking up on supplies gas ext is San Jose De Maipo after that its limited. Lo Valdes is a small town and the highest up the road. We spent our first couple nights at a very nice rock castle called <a href="http://www.refugioplacaroja.com/" target="_blank">Lodge Placaroja</a>. The owners are very welcoming and have lots of knowlege of the area with topo maps on the wall ext. Great place to shake off the jet lag and get antiquated with the area.<br />
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<b>Cost of hotels,cabanas ext/</b>/ We found that it was around $30-50 pp to get a good bed for the night. There were some cheaper options but you may as well camp. San Jose De Maipo has a couple places that offer camping spots with showers ext//<br />
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<b> Overview of area:</b><br />
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<b>Over view of Chile</b><br />
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<b>The north</b> is mostly desert and high elevation not really good
for skiing with the exception of certain volcaones at certain times of
the year.<br />
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<b>The South</b> has a lower elevations and
is more like the west coast of Canada. It gets lots of snow and I have
heard of people skiing late into November but it seems to be more
limited and harder access.<br />
<br />
<b>Central Chile</b> is where you will find the high elevation and snow mixture that makes for great ski mountaineering esp in oct/november. Cajon del Maipo despite being so close to the epicenter of Chile has amazing access and very low crowds once you get off the beaten path. <b><br /></b><br />
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So thats my small taste of Chile. We did end up driving south about 800kms to check out an active volcano called Villarrica and get our tourist fix. It was beautiful but was really not much more then allot of people being guided up to see a bunch of hot sulfur gas.<br />
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The area around it was stunning with lots of hot springs and it felt really refreshing to go there for a few days before heading out. <br />
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My SD card glitched and I lost a bunch of footage from Marmolejo highlighting central Chile but in hindsight this blog post is long enough. Now back to our extended layover in Costa Rica where I finish battling a virus/parasite, hopefully in time for the Canadian winter :)<b> </b><br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13808987016992949474noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3761453852358599645.post-5069126079348160982013-09-23T17:46:00.000-07:002013-09-24T09:52:05.210-07:00"Ski"mountaineering<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Its always an investment to take skis on a long approach. </div>
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The whole way up you dream of those epic pow turns your going to get up high, convincing your self the weight is worth it.</div>
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Last weekend I was able to tea up with <span class="gD" name="Julian Stoddart"><a href="http://www.howesoundsales.blogspot.ca/" target="_blank">Julian Stoddart</a></span><span class="gD" name="Julian Stoddart"> and try a line on Robson we have been thinking about for some time. Its notorious for being out of condition and hard to access but we had high hopes. </span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8lbsZCWJQyI/UkCiP6zWAOI/AAAAAAAAByQ/gAEtXVNOIQc/s1600/juki.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8lbsZCWJQyI/UkCiP6zWAOI/AAAAAAAAByQ/gAEtXVNOIQc/s640/juki.jpg" width="640" /></a> Starting early half asleep both of us left our conscience and common sense in the tent. The wind cut into our faces but our souls were thirsty for the beautiful aesthetics in the morning light.<br />
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The shimmer of the ice glazed faces started to reveal there forbidden ski environment and began to drown our hopes of doing more than mountaineering with skis. Hope however still lingered as you don't know until you get there and even so there is always plenty of fun and adventure to be had. <br />
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Picking our way onto Robson Helmet col it was evident that things were not in ski condition with a thin dusting of snow over ice. The warm temps in Sept had effected all elevations and aspects and very little new snow had bonded to the surface. This spawned a new mission to head up the Helmet a beautiful peak in its self. <br />
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With the views it was easy to make light of our situation and just enjoy the movements in such and amazing place. <br />
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We didn't give up on the hope of skiing and continued to "mountaineer" with skis in search of any skiable terrain. At first glance slopes would look snow covered but upon closer inspection the glistening ice would appear.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">with the right angles the ice on the faces is obvious (Kain Face)</td></tr>
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The Helmet over shadowed by Mt Robson doesn't see allot of attention but the views are spectacular and its a great option if the higher reaches are out of condition or there is heavy s-w winds. We spent some time eating and laughing on the summit and then started to down climb. <br />
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Finally after rapping the schrund we found some nice lower angle sludge, got a few turns in and at the very least felt a sense of satisfaction in just using the skis.<br />
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<span class="bqQuoteLink">It seems life is not a matter of holding good cards, but of just playing them out.. sometimes with humility and skis on your back. </span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13808987016992949474noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3761453852358599645.post-88492663636072994002013-08-14T23:05:00.001-07:002013-09-22T13:14:06.107-07:00Beta on South Face Spur - Kain route variationWith lots of emails coming in about this route it sparked me to make a KMZ file and I will do my best to give some beta in a blog post. Updated file - <a href="http://www.filedropper.com/updatekmzkain" target="_blank">Click for KMZ</a> - email me if link is broken.<br />
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<b>Elevation Gain:</b> 2041 meters<br />
<b>Distance:</b> 7.2km<br />
<b>Time:</b> 1 day (for slower parties it can be broken into 2 with second bivi on the Dome) (plenty of good bivi sites)<br />
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<b>Pros:</b><br />
-Shortest approach route.<br />
-Least amount of objective hazards. (nice break as there will be plenty the second day)<br />
-No gear needed at most 4th class. <br />
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<b>Cons:</b><br />
-Bushwhacking (1.8km)<br />
-Easy to be sandbagged going off route.<br />
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*note: the Patterson might be faster to get to the Dome when doing it in two days as its more direct via the yellow bands but even with good conditions your still dealing with more objective hazards for small time savings. Because of its aspect and lower elevation its best to hit the couloir very early so doing the patterson couloir in a day isn't very feasible. <br />
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Description:<br />
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<b>Trail portion:</b> Head up towards Kinney lake cross the main bridge from here you will head East up the valley towards Mt. Resplendent. I have found it easiest to start bush whacking from the top of the first set of switch backs on the trail. <br />
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<b>Bush portion:</b> From the top of the switch backs climb about 150 meters just to the left of an avi shoot. From here cross the shoot start traversing in and try to hit a bit of a bench that will have some animal trails on it. There will be openings and thinker sections, it seems easiest to trend up and hit the massive run out a little high at 1365 meters. The 1.8km of bush offers a great place to practice some man yoga and stretch out before the big climb.<br />
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Congrats the bush whacking is pretty much done.<br />
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<b>Gravel flats</b>: From the bush to the base of the climb is a very pleasant walk on flat ground and a nice break after the bushwhacking. Following the opening on the run out you make your way to the main river and then head up the gravel on the first creek. This creek brings you to the base of the main climb where you have to cross two more creeks to hit the critical entry point. If the water is high instead of following the creek to the base of the climb you can head through the timber for an easier crossing on the second creek (largest). <br />
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<b>Base of climb</b> - critical entry point:<br />
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Once you have crossed the 3rd creek you want to head along the face for about 100 meters and then start heading up the shrub covered weakness. This is probably the most important section to get right. see below,<br />
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There will be some thick but short lived bushwhacking at the start and then you come out onto a goat trail that will bring you up the left side of the drainage. From the opening climb about 80 meters and then trend left and then up to the base of the cliff band. There will be a weakness in the rock band shooting up left follow this to a patch of trees where you will see another weakness hooking hard right. Follow this weakness to the drainage. Once at the drainage you will see a hole carved out in the rock head up. Its steep but with good grip you can smear your way up the rock or climb if need be. You will come to a slot with a ridge trending left. Gain this ridge and then you are pretty much in the clear as there are more options up high and its more of a general path.<br />
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This has probably some of the more technical scrambling but you head up following weakness left and right until you get on top of the flats. Follow the flats on the right and side of the creek until you get to where it starts climbing again. From here head up right of the big rock outcrop for about 20 meters and then hook hard left following a beautiful smooth rock bench that brings you towards the final and biggest bench.<br />
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Follow this bench all the way across to a moraine below the buttress. Gain the moraine follow it up and then hook around to the left side of the buttress. Its a steady scramble all the way up the spur above the buttress but nothing that exposed or difficult. <br />
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Once you gain the ridge there will be ample room left or right for a bivi. Check between the snow and rocks for pools of water to avoid melting snow. Now's time to feast the eyes for the day ahead. <br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13808987016992949474noreply@blogger.com26tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3761453852358599645.post-66266188873488630302013-08-09T10:13:00.000-07:002013-08-09T10:24:08.352-07:00Robson Skimountaineering VideoWork and a work injury kept me from the alpine for almost 3 months, but with a new cycle starting its on the way back and the energy up there is stronger then ever. <br />
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Last week Jeff Colvin and I headed up via the Patterson spur and Kain route. Great times with lots of laughs, we took full advantage of the great weather. It was shot in HD so if you would like to get the crystal clear views have HD on + full screen and let it load.
<iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/72024058" width="650" height="366" frameborder="0" webkitAllowFullScreen mozallowfullscreen allowFullScreen></iframe> <p><a href="http://vimeo.com/72024058">Mt. Robson Skimounaineering</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user6934634">Reiner</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13808987016992949474noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3761453852358599645.post-65826165236234304922013-05-17T07:17:00.000-07:002013-05-17T21:36:17.364-07:00Committed series. Mt Alberta's Japanese Route. Another great video from the <a href="http://www.smileysproject.com/Committed__Fifty_Classic_Climbs_of_North_America/Committed.html" target="_blank">Smiley's</a> documenting our fifty's classic climb up Mt. Alberta from last summer. Currently there in Alaska tackling some of the harder fifty classics, for more info <a href="http://www.smileysproject.com/">www.smileysproject.com</a><br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="281" mozallowfullscreen="" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/66053376" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="500"></iframe> <a href="http://vimeo.com/66053376">Mt Alberta's Japanese Route</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user2604859">Mark Smiley</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13808987016992949474noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3761453852358599645.post-83009142076055860172013-04-13T06:52:00.001-07:002013-04-13T06:52:09.188-07:00Full length event clip - Atomic Waymaker 2013<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/EczFH3lTp78" width="640"></iframe><br />
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See below for Waymaker blog post. Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13808987016992949474noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3761453852358599645.post-14098791298071648712013-04-12T09:01:00.002-07:002013-04-15T11:45:26.764-07:00Unreal Weekend in the Mountains- The Atomic Waymaker<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Our team United Stats of Canada went into the waymaker with out high expectations but with a sense of adventure and the goal to do the best we could. There were many unknowns and it seemed a challenge not only to compete but to organize such a logistically challenging event. We came 3 days early to get a feel for the area and after 2 days of scouting in white out conditions we finally got a chance to see the Dachstien Masif. An impressive sight when you have rolling hills radically transforming into sharp spires of lime stone jolting up into the heavens.<br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;"> With just barley enough time to get a route plan together we tossed our <span style="font-size: small;">self's</span> into the mix and things started up. It took about 5 seconds to realize that this event was very very well organized and well funded almost to the point of disbelief. Heli Putz, Patrick Tritscher, Carina Brunnauer, Martin Steinbach,<span style="font-size: small;"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">the judges, <span style="font-size: small;">the </span>representatives from Atomic, RedB<span style="font-size: small;">ull,</span> Sunto and other sponsors had things dialed, it really felt like the 28th edition. </span></span><br />
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We spent the day introducing the teams talking about the idea of the event and going over electronics, mandatory gear and route planning. With big inspirations like Kilian supporting the event one could not help but imagine images of his movie <a href="http://www.summitsofmylife.com/en/home" target="_blank">a fine line</a>. For an event to encompass all of what it means to be free in the mountains is really a huge progression not just in skimo but in sports in general. To be out there with friends pushing limits and realizing new potential doing exactly what you naturally would do creates an atmosphere like no other. Its only a matter of time before the potential of this format is fully realized.<br />
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During the event it was evident that the white out conditions would change the game and while at first disappointed it soon became evident that it added to the challenge and experience. The draw back to the low vis was having the helicopter grounded and film crews on foot. This however did not stop them and you would see random camramen/women in the highest reaches of the Dachstien clinging to the edge of a cliff to get there shots. Once compiled despite all odds they were still able to come up with a great movie documenting the event.<br />
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To fit all our experiences from the weekend would be much to long so I will concentrate on one of our highlights during the event. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Red: Ski/down climb Yellow: Abseil</td></tr>
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This 45-50 degree powder chalked couliar with a abseil half way down was one of our main objectives for day 2. It was accessed from skiing off the summit to the lookers left. The top had a steep narrow skiable strip that ran out onto some rock bands which was negotiated by down climbing.<br />
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This brought us to the first section of great skiing and with big smiles on our faces we approached the the top of the abseil.<br />
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From here we burnt some time digging and looking for an appropriate anchor. With no ice, lack of good horns and snow quality not suitable for a bollard or deadman we decided on digging out and <br />
slinging a big rock with some cord. <br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TWIe_To1ELw/UWggDGy5hkI/AAAAAAAABlE/vQ8g16C1Xoo/s1600/DSC_0107s.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TWIe_To1ELw/UWggDGy5hkI/AAAAAAAABlE/vQ8g16C1Xoo/s640/DSC_0107s.jpg" width="640" /> </a>We had guessed our 60m rope would do the trick and upon Mark cresting
the edge we were lucky to save some time and do it in one abseil. </div>
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From here we enjoyed some even better turns and could open her up now being out of the no fall zone. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mcnab shredding out the last few turns onto the glacier.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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Our next assent was to bring us to the high point of the Dachstien but due to increasingly poor conditions we got the call and we stopped 200m short of the top. Safety is number one and it was good to see the organizers make the call once conditions deteriorated. Having completed most of our day every one was able to realize some really good skiing and now have some things to come back for!<br />
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I cant be thank full enough to be part of such a great team. Andrew and Mark bring to the table so many skills it would be impossible to ask for better partners. It was an honer to represent North America and I think the team name really describes the tight nit community we have. Now if only our legal system would let us have some fun ;)Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13808987016992949474noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3761453852358599645.post-14596276531201830432013-03-09T22:34:00.000-08:002013-03-26T12:44:04.786-07:00Atomic Waymaker - New format of Skimo Competition!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Its seems like a far fetched dream to have a competition that encompasses all that makes for a perfect day of skiing in the mountains. A format that encompasses all aspects of route assessment, risk assessment, group dynamics, aesthetics, variety, technicality, vertical skied and of course finding those beautiful un tracked lines. Atomic has partnered up with Kilian Jornet and taken this bold step in creating a completely new format of skimountaineering competition that does just this. Welcome the inaugural Atomic WayMaker. <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CjNzEN3mw2o/UTuDftpO_qI/AAAAAAAABeI/QW-Wr7c5tBA/s1600/waymaker2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CjNzEN3mw2o/UTuDftpO_qI/AAAAAAAABeI/QW-Wr7c5tBA/s640/waymaker2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
With the nature of this event it is limited to 8 teams of 3 selected by the organizers to meet there criteria of having the strongest possible teams. Andrew Mcnab, Mark Smiley, and my self applied knowing that the competition was fierce for those 8 spots, we named the team United states of Canada. Having worked together in the past we knew each member was well suited for this event and we could have a competitive team however we knew it was still a long shot to get in.<br />
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3 days ago we got the good news and we are very excited to take part in this historical event. Now its on to focusing and preparing our self's to preform at our best next month. The interesting part about this event is that the focus on training is very broad covering everything from building quick efficient anchors to executing that one killer photo with efficiently and creativity. We will be studying the maps and we plan to head down 5 days early to scout out routes and really get a feel for the area. Each day has a start and end point with an allotted amount of time (9hrs) to do any variation within the boundaries of the event. <br />
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Each team must submit a route plan to be approved before starting out on day 1. Once approved the teams must stick to the plan unless something like weather changes and the risk becomes to high. Suunto has been very generous and donated new GPS watch's to the athletes so the judges can watch every move live. Cell phones from Redbull mobile will allow each team to make mandatory reports/check ins during the day. On each climb and descent during the race it is mandatory to take a photo to submit to the judges edited with some text describing the route. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Assent up West ridge, descent down North Face.</td></tr>
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Adhering to strict rules for safety measures a team will be disqualified if they are endangering them self's or others during the competition.<br />
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The jury making these calls and the ones who each team will need to impress consists of;<br />
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<b>Heli Putz,</b> Dachstein mountain guide, organizer and head judge of the event.<br />
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<b>Hannes Arch</b>, Red Bull Air Race World Champion and BASE jumper.<br />
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<b>Beat Kammerlander</b>, a native of the Voralberg region of Austria, alpine all-rounder and one of the world's best sports climbers.<br />
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<b>Andreas "Ringo" Ringhofer</b>, the most successful Austrian athlete in the Ski Mountaineering World Cup.<br />
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<b>Matthias "Hauni" Haunholder</b> – a member of the Atomic International
Freeski Team and one of the Invited Riders at the Freeride World Tour.<br />
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For more info see,<br />
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<a href="http://www.atomicwaymaker.com/event.php?lang=EN">http://www.atomicwaymaker.com/event.php?lang=EN</a><a href="http://www.atomicwaymaker.com/event.php?lang=EN" target="_blank">http://www.atomicwaymaker.com/event.php?lang=EN</a> <br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13808987016992949474noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3761453852358599645.post-51959474862233654862013-02-28T03:44:00.000-08:002013-03-28T03:14:46.829-07:00Europe<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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A month of racing in Europe, 12 races including 2 world cups, a grand course race and a world championship my body's systems have been tested. At times I ponder my sanity "why would I inflict this upon myself" "this is fundamentally crazy" but then the light shines in and I realize it just fits. My soul yearns for the challenge of pushing harder and longer and these are the perfect playing grounds. Its a special
place set up by organizers and military where everyone inadvertently
creates an opportunity to test and push there limit.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lwrvl3f5jtI/USpZ-o6WRKI/AAAAAAAABWQ/QAlLF_Qj1I8/s1600/226855_10151387083822550_1960910052_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lwrvl3f5jtI/USpZ-o6WRKI/AAAAAAAABWQ/QAlLF_Qj1I8/s640/226855_10151387083822550_1960910052_n.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Racing in very cold wet and windy conditions</td></tr>
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The competition in these races is fierce leaving even the best athletes (some of the highest ever recorded V02 max) fighting for podium. This is likely why athletes like Kilian Jornet still compete as its a challenge that when met allows you the ultimate potential for moving fast in the mountains. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-55S_MbqMObM/USejgzf5RmI/AAAAAAAABUU/XDoOsL8Oh7I/s1600/404789_474412019272590_1493589714_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-55S_MbqMObM/USejgzf5RmI/AAAAAAAABUU/XDoOsL8Oh7I/s640/404789_474412019272590_1493589714_n.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Killian at the 2013 individual world championships one of the top endurance athletes in the world. </td></tr>
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Every one has life ambitions whether that be gardening or becoming a politician you have to put in the time to reach your full potential. Moving towards skimountaineering from another sport is much like moving from pianio to the chello. One has the basic frame work to excel giving a good jump on what some say takes 10,000 hours or ten years to reach the cutting edge. In order to build a world champion the best chance is to start young so that there mastery comes in there physiological peak. This however does not allways hold true and its inspiring to see older athletes come out of the wood work and become world champions especially with a weight of 82kg. It just goes to show that sure there are ideals but these ideals only create a psychological barrier waiting to be crushed by some one like William Bon Mardion. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9GSG0jfTuYw/USn2yuV9RDI/AAAAAAAABVk/QoUwEfYkyqs/s1600/mat-individuelle-podium-scratch.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9GSG0jfTuYw/USn2yuV9RDI/AAAAAAAABVk/QoUwEfYkyqs/s640/mat-individuelle-podium-scratch.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">William Bon Mardion standing tall above Matheo and Killian <span style="font-size: small;"><b>with an extra 25kgs (55lbs) of body weigh</b>t </span>and 4-7 years.</td></tr>
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Three years ago many would have doubted his true potential but there is a take home message - your true potential can only be unlocked by you and no matter your age shape or size the potential while unknown to the world awaits. It might not bring you to be a world champion but the happiness from achieving it can make you feel like one.<br />
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For me Ski mountaineering remains a challenge to reach my potential and a vehicle for moving fast and efficient in the mountains. The placing at races and more importantly time off the leaders gives a gauge to my progress. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Starting our for the Relay. I'm the red and florescent green.</td></tr>
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Its been 5 years now and there have been steady increases however the biggest was in 2011/12. This year has seen increases and some good placings but living in Europe I have learnt allot about what it takes to reach higher and higher levels. Its exitting and motivating to think about whats possible but also hard to not get to distracted by the many other great avenue's in life! Luckily the work put into Skimo racing can be translated...<br />
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into great views <br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rHVnX98lWes/US5__2SQnrI/AAAAAAAABXk/psSLZGh_yJA/s1600/M5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="536" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rHVnX98lWes/US5__2SQnrI/AAAAAAAABXk/psSLZGh_yJA/s640/M5.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
taking naps,<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9VFc66Q4JgY/US6FD97HaDI/AAAAAAAABYU/J_2uQat4tx8/s1600/IMG_6916.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9VFc66Q4JgY/US6FD97HaDI/AAAAAAAABYU/J_2uQat4tx8/s640/IMG_6916.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
and dressing up like santa claws in a skin suit with a harness and via ferrata<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3u-FHU1gT9w/US6KzND9qCI/AAAAAAAABY0/-YiMz9p4PIY/s1600/180903_10150414991085123_4894921_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3u-FHU1gT9w/US6KzND9qCI/AAAAAAAABY0/-YiMz9p4PIY/s640/180903_10150414991085123_4894921_n.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">ho ho ho</td></tr>
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Ohh and there might be a few other things.... I can leave that up to your imagination.<br />
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Now with lots of ideas to report on, amazing aesthetic couloir skiing and some more free time it should equal more blog posts!<br />
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Twitter feed always has updates.<br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13808987016992949474noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3761453852358599645.post-81142567407784706362012-12-13T20:56:00.000-08:002013-09-26T19:28:53.359-07:00"Fast and Light" Plant Based Nutrition for Mountaineering<br />
Keeping up on nutrition is an essential part in maintaining a peak physical and mental state. Unfortunately while alpine climbing or skiing you cant just open the fridge and make a salad in fact there are times where if you stop moving you will simply die. We are very vulnerable out there and that's why its important to have the best gear but also the best food!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vK7_MU4iCMs/UMlt-DeE0uI/AAAAAAAABO0/-D2B4qShioU/s1600/gol3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="548" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vK7_MU4iCMs/UMlt-DeE0uI/AAAAAAAABO0/-D2B4qShioU/s640/gol3.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fueling up on a living foods bar en route to Mt. Robsons NF</td></tr>
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Through out the years I have tried meat/dairy I have tried taking that one Super duper duper food but through trial and error its become very clear to me that a well balanced plant based diet works best on the mountain. Ultimately its not the ideal diet however when light and fast are the highest priority's there are some sacrifices to be made but with the right combination these sacrifices can be minimized.<br />
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These foods are instant to prepare, high in calories and nutrition but low in weight. They pack a punch helping achieve sustained energy, mental clarity and overall nutrition on the mountain. <br />
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<h2>
<b>Carbohydrates - replacing the glycogen reserves - 4cal/gram</b></h2>
Lets start with <b><a href="http://lets%20start%20with%20the%20couscous%20%20/" target="_blank">Couscous</a></b>, it packs easy, is more nutritious then pasta and prepares instantly making it a corner stone carbohydrate for replacing glycogen reserves in the muscles. When on longer trips where variety is important or with people who are gluten intolerant/celiac steamed quinoa and millet also work but are more expensive and not as readily available. Western couscous variety's are pre steamed so you just need to add hot water and wait 5 min. <a href="http://www.casbahnaturalfoods.com/products/index.php" target="_blank">Casbah</a> sells flavored variety's in 7 oz (200g) bags/box's with flavors like, <b>Lemon Spinach</b>, <b>Wild Forest Mushroom</b>,<b> Roasted Garlic and Olive Oil</b> or <b>Nuts, Currants and Spice</b>. These are organic, simple but healthy meals that you can purchase for under 5 dollars and all that is lacking when compared to freeze dried packaged dinners is a bunch of ingredients that you cant pronounce plus the extra dollars. Its no wonder Conrad Ankor said couscous, couscous, cousous and more couscous when asked what he was eating for dinner on there 12 day assault of the <a href="http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web11f/newswire-meru-sharks-fin-anker-chin-ozturk" target="_blank">sharks fin</a> on Meru Central's (6310m) massive east face wall. Put simply it works.... Add organic freeze dried packages of<b> mashed potatoes </b>for variety and difference in consistency.<br />
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<b>*note:</b> <a href="http://www.kingsoba.com/organic-noodles-udon.php" target="_blank">King Soba's Organic Buckwheat</a> noodles work great for a gluten free alternative to couscous or to just switch it up (I personally prefer these over couscous). Many flavors to try and they are affordable add a boulioun cube for a great soup.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PxwnSNoQIZw/UMlxZDwLfJI/AAAAAAAABPU/A_CiZbcrKIE/s1600/meru-routeline.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PxwnSNoQIZw/UMlxZDwLfJI/AAAAAAAABPU/A_CiZbcrKIE/s640/meru-routeline.jpg" width="418" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Meru Central's (6310m) E face "sharks fin" in red.</td></tr>
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Now your probably wondering... right just eat couscous with some potatoes and you will be prancing up the mountain. Well to be honest you have 1/3 of what you need and are missing complete proteins, certain fats and vital minerals and vitamins. Like an orchestra you need all your members in order to realize the magic. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_jc_rS3lW80/UMqh2IrgavI/AAAAAAAABRA/LE6rAjOljTA/s1600/awapta3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_jc_rS3lW80/UMqh2IrgavI/AAAAAAAABRA/LE6rAjOljTA/s640/awapta3.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ian Gale on an early Wapta speed attempt. High RPM Carbs at work</td></tr>
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<h2>
Proteins - rebuilding and sustained energy <b>4cal/gram</b></h2>
All the food mentioned in this blog post will contain a certain amount of protein but to ensure complete proteins and enough to aid in recovery I like to fix up a special bag. Garden of life makes an exceptional organic <b><a href="http://www.gardenoflife.com/Products-for-Life/Foundational-Nutrition/RAW-Meal.aspx" target="_blank">Raw sprouted protein</a></b> that with its natural enzymes makes its very easy to digest. Also added are sprouts, cereal grass juices, fruits, spirulina, chlorella along with probiotics, fat-soluble vitamins and minerals. This makes it a very special bag that supports your nutrition in many ways while remaining extremely light. To bulk it up a little I sometimes add <b>hemp seeds</b> which are also high in complete proteins.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tQEHpduNsQo/UMqjoJmAb_I/AAAAAAAABRI/67EeP4U7o4o/s1600/sian.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tQEHpduNsQo/UMqjoJmAb_I/AAAAAAAABRI/67EeP4U7o4o/s640/sian.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Recovery mode on. Ian gale, Jeff Colvin and Julie Matteau after skiing the N. twin</td></tr>
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<h2>
Fats <b>9cal/gram</b></h2>
Fat is vital to our survival and is the highest calorie to weight food component so its definitely a key part of the package. During a bout of low intensity exercise of long duration fatty acid oxidation can contribute 50per cent of the energy expenditure. The rest of the energy must come from carbs and the higher the intensity the more carbs are needed. Luckily a large part of mountaineering is low intensity and high fat foods can be readily utilized.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ALkH1AYBpDQ/UMqdsiT3nzI/AAAAAAAABQc/uwvyC6MO4A0/s1600/nf7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ALkH1AYBpDQ/UMqdsiT3nzI/AAAAAAAABQc/uwvyC6MO4A0/s640/nf7.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Topping out on Robson at sunset via NF fatty acid oxidation in full swing</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6v10nHXGNc8/UMqeqJqDapI/AAAAAAAABQk/pUeCr1mpXBs/s1600/cJeffAurther.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6v10nHXGNc8/UMqeqJqDapI/AAAAAAAABQk/pUeCr1mpXBs/s640/cJeffAurther.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jeff on the upper reaches of <a href="http://theoutsideout.blogspot.ca/2012/04/mtsir-arthur-meighen-visit-on-skis-to.html" target="_blank">Mt. Sir Arthur Meagan</a> long spring day.</td></tr>
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My go to fat is<b> nuts </b>and I like to take a variety of organic nuts to take advantage of each unique nutrient profile. Filling a ziplock bag with<b> brazil nuts, cashews, almonds, walnuts, pine nuts, and filberts</b> you have a quick and easy fat source. Because most nuts are high in omega 6 fatty acids (inflammatory) I like to balance it out with chia seeds which are in turn very high in omega 3 ( anti inflammatory). Chia seeds are normally added to my " special bag". Another fat that I take along is <b><a href="http://www.gardenoflife.com/ProductsforLife/LIVINGFOODS/ExtraVirginCoconutOil/tabid/680/Default.aspx" target="_blank">coconut oil</a></b> to add to my soups and dinners improving the taste and aroma while adding a few extra calories. <br />
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<h2>
Vitamins and Minerals - minimal weight maximum results </h2>
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<b>Minerals</b><br />
I love making hot soup and taking a pack of 6 <a href="http://www.gobiofood.com/organic-bouillons-organic-bouillon-cubes-c-358_359.html" target="_blank"><b>organic veggie bouillon cubs</b></a> it supplies you with a tone of minerals. Add some spinach couscous and coconut oil improving texture and more flavor. I also like to take <a href="http://www.livestrong.com/article/176061-health-benefits-of-rock-salt/" target="_blank"><b>rock salt</b></a> to add to food and water for improved hydration and taste. <br />
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<b>Vitamins</b><br />
Testing many brands I find it very important to find a multi vitamin that is raw with enzymes to allow maximum absorption. GOL seems to put the most emphasis on maximum absorption and has a couple products that meet up to the test,<b> <a href="http://www.gardenoflife.com/Products-for-Life/Living-Nutrients/Living-Multi-Mens.aspx" target="_blank">Living Multi</a></b> along with the<b> <a href="http://www.gardenoflife.com/Products-for-Life/Foundational-Nutrition/Perfect-Food-RAW.aspx" target="_blank">perfect food</a></b> greens formula. I also like to take <a href="http://www.gardenoflife.com/Products-for-Life/Immunity-Support/Wobenzym-N.aspx" target="_blank">Wobenzum</a> to help ensure joint health especially for those long descents with big packs. <br />
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Additional <b>well balanced foods</b> 60-70% carb, 15-20% fat, 15-20% protein.<br />
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For breakfast I turn to Oatmeal and to avoid starting the stove up in the morning I prepare it the night before and let it soak over night in a sealed container inside the bivi. Containing 70% carbs 15% fat 15% protein it is well balanced but I like to add some special bag mix to it and let it all soak together for improved taste and nutrition. Raisins and nuts are also a great addition. <br />
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Lunch time doesn't really exist while on the mountain as it's important to fuel the body consistently through out the day. I fill my chest pockets with <b><a href="http://www.gardenoflife.com/Products-for-Life/Living-Foods/Organic-Whole-Food-Bars.aspx" target="_blank">GOL living food bars</a></b> I like to eat about 1/2 a bar per hour. Sweetened with <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Health_effects_of_honey" target="_blank">honey</a> they contain powerful <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antioxidant" title="Antioxidant">antioxidants</a> with antiseptic and <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antibacterial" title="Antibacterial">antibacterial</a> properties and along with many other organic wholesome ingredients <b>(including Fiber)</b> they make for a perfect go to bar that sits well in the stomach and keeps you regular. When the opportunity arises to put the pack down I will eat some nuts and even whip up a quick batch of soup if there is enough time. I always keep a couple emergency gels in my waist pocket on my pack. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kv7G54YpySs/UMqmRq1bwCI/AAAAAAAABRk/_IWL2PP4cZQ/s1600/out+house.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="420" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kv7G54YpySs/UMqmRq1bwCI/AAAAAAAABRk/_IWL2PP4cZQ/s640/out+house.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Out house at Mt. Alberta Hut</td></tr>
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Finally for further hydration and immunity boost I like to brew up some<b><a href="http://www.yogiproducts.com/products/details/echinacea-immune-support/" target="_blank"> echinacea tea</a> </b>with rock salt.<br />
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Now lets lay this all out on a table for you to see what I would take on a 3 day mission.<br />
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It all fits nicely in a Dynafit skin bag weighing in at a competitive 2kg (4.4lbs)<br />
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List of what's inside,<br />
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2 <a href="http://www.casbahnaturalfoods.com/products/index.php" target="_blank">Casbah</a> packages of couscous<br />
1 <b> package freeze dried <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Instant_mashed_potatoes" target="_blank">mashed potatoes</a></b><br />
<b>1 bag with a chunk of <a href="http://www.gardenoflife.com/ProductsforLife/LIVINGFOODS/ExtraVirginCoconutOil/tabid/680/Default.aspx" target="_blank">coconut oil</a></b> <br />
8-10 <b><a href="http://www.gardenoflife.com/Products-for-Life/Living-Foods/Organic-Whole-Food-Bars.aspx" target="_blank"> living food bars</a></b><br />
<b>2 gels</b><br />
<b>1 bag of </b><b><b><a href="http://www.gardenoflife.com/Products-for-Life/Foundational-Nutrition/RAW-Meal.aspx" target="_blank">Raw sprouted protein or meal</a> (6 servings), chia and hemp seeds</b></b><br />
<b><b>1 bag of nuts </b></b><br />
<b><b>1 bag of <a href="http://www.buzzle.com/articles/oats-nutrition-facts.html" target="_blank">oat meal </a>including raisens</b></b><br />
<b><b> </b></b>6 <a href="http://www.gobiofood.com/organic-bouillons-organic-bouillon-cubes-c-358_359.html" target="_blank"><b>organic veggie boulioun cubs</b></a><br />
<b>small amount of <a href="http://www.livestrong.com/article/176061-health-benefits-of-rock-salt/" target="_blank">rock salt</a></b><br />
<b>bag with<a href="http://www.gardenoflife.com/Products-for-Life/Living-Nutrients/Living-Multi-Mens.aspx" target="_blank"> Living Multi,</a> </b><b> <a href="http://www.gardenoflife.com/Products-for-Life/Foundational-Nutrition/Perfect-Food-RAW.aspx" target="_blank">perfect food</a></b> greens formula and <a href="http://www.gardenoflife.com/Products-for-Life/Immunity-Support/Wobenzym-N.aspx" target="_blank">Wobenzum</a>.<br />
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3 days of thriving, lets go climb a mountain!<br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13808987016992949474noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3761453852358599645.post-29975359082625712892012-11-01T10:24:00.001-07:002012-11-01T10:53:09.189-07:00Mt Robson's Wishbone Arête Great film documenting our climb up Mt Robson's Wishbone Arête.<br />
Watch in High Def and read the trip report while loading, <a href="http://smileysproject.blogspot.ca/">http://smileysproject.blogspot.ca/ </a><br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen" frameborder="0" height="281" mozallowfullscreen="mozallowfullscreen" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/52307295?badge=0" webkitallowfullscreen="webkitallowfullscreen" width="500"></iframe> <a href="http://vimeo.com/52307295">Mt Robson's Wishbone Arête</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user2604859">Mark Smiley</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13808987016992949474noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3761453852358599645.post-62184537072958214112012-10-17T14:51:00.002-07:002013-08-27T09:44:39.421-07:00Mt. Robson - North face - Climbing out of Mordor.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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If your looking for a massive dark and cold undertaking look no further the north face of Robson in October is where you want to be! <br />
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This thanksgiving my brother (Andreas) and I decided to work up an appetite and try a full loop of the mountain up the North Face and down the Robson Resplendent Spur. Leaving the bikes at Kinney lake we planned to hike/climb to the base of the NF sleep, then up over and out the next day.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sRHxuksaLHU/UH38zm5FBAI/AAAAAAAABHU/Fcn260rydyg/s1600/nfd.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sRHxuksaLHU/UH38zm5FBAI/AAAAAAAABHU/Fcn260rydyg/s640/nfd.jpg" width="640" /></a>The first day went as planned we hiked up to Burg lake froze our feet
crossing the river then climbed 800 meters up some fifth class rock
covered in snow and ice. <br />
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At around 4pm we were able to see the sun rise and shortly after we were melting snow on a rock buttress below the ever looming North Face watching it set.<br />
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Up at first light we found our selves in a maze of seracs and crevasses with a breakable crust causing things to dramatically slow down. It was evident that the glacier was now allot more broken then previous trip reports and photos had portrayed. <br />
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Watching the NF get lit up by the morning sun we knew we were alittle behind schedule and this day was likely going to turn into two.<br />
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Stopping at the base to suit up, hydrate and fuel up one could not hold back the excitement towards the 1000 meters of ice waiting to be climbed. Starting up the face things went smoothly until we started to hit big sections of brittle ice that would shatter like glass. The ice underneath was good but this slowed our placements and forced us to go up in a traversing manner to out flank the falling ice. Making our way up we watched a huge serac break off covering a big section of our tracks and running farther then expected with chunks of ice skipping over crevasses breaking bridges and filling them with debris. Time seemed to be ambiguous but with fading light we knew we had to keep pushing to hit the crux on the emperor ridge before dark. Part way up Ken Smith from Edmonton happened to be flying around the mountain and was able to take a couple cool shots of us.<br />
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Placing one screw at a time on our running belay we started to make good progress and after about 8 hours we had hit the steeper mixed climbing sections. It was at this point that we noticed how much time was getting eaten up and by the time we crested the ridge we were at sun set flooded by a sea of gold spanning the whole SW face.<br />
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From here it was very dramatic as we carfully weaved our way around over and under giant double corniced gargolies with the dark NF on one side and the bright brilliant SW on the other. Forced into some pretty precarious positions I think both of us were hoping to fall into the light side if we needed to break the others fall.<br />
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Finally the summit was in sight and with it came some very intense winds making our stay on the short side. Strapping on headlamps and some extra layers we headed down in search of some softer snow to dig a cave.<br />
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Stumbling down the summit ridge through the dark with cold piercing spin drift I was happy to have been up there the week before. Ending up on top of the Kain face we found a more sheltered spot to dig in. For a couple hours we made some water cooked some food and got horizontal until the light was on the horizon. <br />
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We continued the rest of our journey down climbing the Kain
face and navigating a white out on the dome through more breakable crust. This brought us to the Robson Resplendent ridge where we noticed we were following very
fresh wolverine tracks. It almost seemed fitting at this point and a stand off with a wolverine seemed like a pretty fair fight considering both of us were armed with two ice tools and crampons. (haha yah right...) <br />
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This seemed amazing to me that this wolverine actually had a habit of scouring the higher reaches of Robson to find the body's of perished climbers. Having read about accounts where parks rescue would follow the wolverine tracks leading to the body we hoped that this was not the case.<br />
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Luckily from what we gathered the wolverine was just on a patrol and had made his way back down the glacier leaving us free to head down the rocky spur through some goat trails to the valley bottom and our long awaited bush whack back to the bikes at Kinney lake. Once we got back to the bikes we for the first time in a couple days were able to reflect on what just happened. It was an amazing journey from start to finish, some quality bro time and an adventure that will last a life time.<br />
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Photos: Andreas Thoni Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13808987016992949474noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3761453852358599645.post-46262447990341069812012-09-30T14:40:00.000-07:002012-09-30T16:20:32.190-07:00Mt. Robson South Face Kain Route VariationIt always boggles my mind how time seems to slow down in fall. No one has any plans and all of the sudden we have time for harvesting, getting fire wood, having potlucks and pretty much anything imaginable. When the weather is good it presents an opportunity to get after some things that have been sitting on the side lines.<br />
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Last week was one of those opportunity's, it was time to try a variation I have been looking at for accessing the Kain route via the south face of Robson. This route is a much more direct approach to the dome or Robson Resplendent col and although much steeper it can save a day of hiking.<br />
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Starting from Kinney lake you take the normal route to the ridge just below the Ralf Forster hut. From here see photo above you traverse the largest yellow band East to the Patterson couloir. There will be some serac and rock fall danger but limited to small sections and a fair trade for the crevasse danger via the normal route. Once at the Patterson couloir there is the option of taking this route straight up to the dome but you expose your self to unnecessary rock fall hazard. By traversing east 500 meters you can gain a spur (4th class) just to the east that brings you right up to the Robson Resplendent Col.<br />
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(Note: Getting off the yellow bands and onto the glacier below the patterson couloir can be a little tricky as one has to climb into and out of the bergshrund however in a year where this doesn't seem feasible one could opt to stay above the bergshrund and keep traversing over to the spur.)<br />
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Once on top the Spur you can camp on the Col (more sun) or climb the ridge to the Dome if you need more time for summit day. <br />
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On the way down we decided to try our luck and bush wack out the creek instead of heading back to the hut. Luck was on our side that day as we were able to find a goat trail that weaved us down what seemed the only half desent route to the valley. There was allot more cliff bands then expected. Once in the valley it was about 3 hours of bush wacking to Kinney Lake. Although we got home at a respectable hour we figured it would be easier and shorter time wise to go down the assent.<br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13808987016992949474noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3761453852358599645.post-40428870585967932232012-09-11T22:33:00.000-07:002012-09-11T22:33:34.715-07:00Healthy Key Lime Pie and Chocolate Mousse"I don't want to give up all the good stuff to be healthy"<br />
<b><span style="color: white;">Well now you can have your cake and eat it to..</span></b> Not only do these desserts taste amazing but they will give you the power and nourishment to go up and down many mountainsides.<br />
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Both are <b><span style="color: white;">100% plant based recipes</span></b> and offer a great opportunity to share a special moment with the people you love.<br />
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<span style="color: #38761d;"><b>Key Lime Pie</b></span><br />
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<b>Nut Crust</b><br />
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<i>Ingredients:</i><br />
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-3/4 cup raw almonds<br />
-1 cup raw walnuts<br />
-10 medjool dates (1 cup pitted and packed down)<br />
-pinch of salt<br />
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Process ingredients in a food processor until they stick together. (don't over process or you will have sweet nut butter). Press into pie plate and put in the fridge.<br />
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<b>Key Lime filling</b><br />
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<i>Ingredients:</i><br />
-3/4 cup fresh squeezed lime juice
-1 1/2 cup avocados
-1/2 cup honey<br />
-1/8 tsp salt<br />
-1/2 tsp. vanilla<br />
<a href="http://www.gardenoflife.com/ProductsforLife/LIVINGFOODS/ExtraVirginCoconutOil/tabid/680/Default.aspx">-1/2 cup coconut oil</a> (Garden of life)<br />
-2 Tbs. soy lecithin<br />
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Blend all ingredients adding coconut oil and lecithin half way through. Blend until creamy then pour over crust. Chill until firm. Enjoy! <br />
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<span style="color: #783f04;"><b>Chocolate Avocado Mousse</b></span><br />
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<b><i>Ingredients:</i></b><br />
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-4 ripe avocados<br />
-1 cup coconut milk <br />
-1 cup cocoa powder<br />
-1/2 cup agave syrup, maple syrup, or honey.<br />
-1-2 teaspoons vanilla extract or vanilla seeds <br />
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Add all ingredients into food processor or blender and process until smooth. Refrigerate then enjoy!Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13808987016992949474noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3761453852358599645.post-11753516319151475232012-08-22T09:52:00.001-07:002012-08-22T09:52:54.373-07:00Mt. Robson Wishbone arete<br />
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Thanks to: <a href="http://www.smileysproject.com/">http://www.smileysproject.com</a>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13808987016992949474noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3761453852358599645.post-38231403982920382792012-04-22T13:13:00.001-07:002012-04-22T13:52:26.440-07:00Mt.Sir Arthur Meighen a visit on skis to a lonely Premier<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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The Premier Range is.....</div>
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and then some...</div>
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A friend by the name Jeff Mitchell rolled into town and with out much discussion we took off to get an early start on these valuable days of high pressure. Starting early from the mega mid mansion we found our self's climbing the Mclennan head wall with the sunrise.</div>
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Originally planning on skii<span style="color: white;">ng<span style="color: orange;"> </span></span><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mount_Sir_Wilfrid_Laurier" style="color: orange;" title="Mount Sir Wilfrid Laurier">Mount Sir Wilfrid Laurier</a><span style="color: white;"> we h</span>eaded towards penny pass and found our self's facing some incoming weather. Still able to get a great view of the peak before it clouded in we had lunch and decided to go for plan B and ski <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mount_Arthur_Meighen" title="Mount Arthur Meighen">Mount Arthur Meighen</a>.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TBFQOHRfvcs/T5ROifUlN8I/AAAAAAAAA9M/NVNpi4u0GwE/s1600/caired2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="458" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TBFQOHRfvcs/T5ROifUlN8I/AAAAAAAAA9M/NVNpi4u0GwE/s640/caired2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sir Wilfrid Laurier</td></tr>
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A great consolation prize we were excited about Arthur Meighan as we have never heard of any one skiing it from the summit. Trying the ridge we were forced to traverse below the rock bands and above the bergschrund before a boot pack took us to the summit ridge. With 30 cm of really low density snow sluffing fast on a firm crust we were happy to get the skis off and crampons on.</div>
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WNnDHBwt5IA/T5RR3CNCccI/AAAAAAAAA9c/4LL8JJq99NE/s1600/cJeffAurther.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WNnDHBwt5IA/T5RR3CNCccI/AAAAAAAAA9c/4LL8JJq99NE/s640/cJeffAurther.jpg" width="640" /> </a>On the way up the clouds would break and then come back in allowing us to eye up a nice line. Once on the summit Murphy's law came into effect and we spent some time waiting for a clearing that never came. This being close to the site of the purposed 1 billion dollar ski destination in Valemount we pondered what it might look like and how it could sure change the game up here with both positive and negative effects. One positive effect would be that we could wait with hot cappuccinos in a heated building for the weather to clear but right now this was sure not the case and skiing with caution we still had some great turns down the north face. <br />
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All in all it was a long day and we were happy to point our skis down hill and head back through some aesthetic clouds and light to some hot dinner and shelter. </div>
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Memories linger of another day in the Premiers and one can only look forward to the next grand adventure on this lonely plateau while it still remains lonely. </div>
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<br /></div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13808987016992949474noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3761453852358599645.post-78231264051539603252012-04-10T19:27:00.000-07:002012-04-10T19:48:13.046-07:0011,000ERS a story and view from above.<div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">
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A high pressure in the forecast, a couple quick emails, some great friends, an amazing place to explore, this was an opportunity to not to be missed! The Columbia Icefield is a massive ice plateau hoisted up above 3000 meters by 11 peaks over 11,000 feet. Needless to say its very impressive and offers many different adventures that can be linked up in countless ways! <br />
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The common approach onto this plateau is heading up the Athabasca Glacier off highway 93 and slogging along the flats until you meet the gate keepers. Not a place to stop and take in the view parties quickly scoot under these large seracs and up a heavily crevassed climb. Once on top the vast Plateau you really begin to realize the scale of this place!<br />
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Our goal was head towards the twins and set up a camp from where we would be able to explore for a couple days. This camp as you can imagine had some ________ views....<br />
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On our first day we decided to head towards the Twins to explore and
hopefully make some summits. The approach was ant like and took us over 2
hours just to get to the base of the climb where we were able to recognize
that we would likely only have time for one summit. The North Twin it was and all of us were more then happy with challenges and opportunity's it offered. <br />
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On our second and last day we decided to go for Kitchener and Snow Dome
hoping to make it back for lunch and an easy camp take down in the
warmth. With a well positioned camp both peaks were well within reach
and we were able to really enjoy the climbs taking in the views.<br />
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Smiles on our faces effortlessly gliding home we had all the time in the world to think of the great moments we shared and all the potential adventures awaiting in the vast beautiful Columbia Icefields. <br />
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</div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13808987016992949474noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3761453852358599645.post-55033593165173174872012-03-22T19:29:00.000-07:002012-04-23T22:49:05.507-07:00Peanut Butter Pickle Sandwich and an Update on the Life of an Addict<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Last year at this time life was good, we were some where in between the haute route and the Pierra Menta but despite the extreme euphoria one thing was missing.... One craving that called out like a crying baby to its mother, but despite searching high and low this craving could not be fulfilled. The bread to die for, the pickles to die for but peanut butter in its true state.. impossible...<br />
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This winter I have allot to be grateful for from realizing dreams of reaching new levels, to being around family and friends. When you really realize the abundance we Canadians live in its truly amazing. It was probably the alpha toxins in the peanut butter getting to me but after living this abundant life style I really started to crave the challenges and opportunity's of living and racing back in Europe.<br />
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Then came a crazy insight a realization that we don't need grocery stores that sell peanut butter in Europe. We simply need the tools (vitamix blender) to turn what they already sell (raw peanuts) into ......! By now the gears were turning and it really dawned on me that the raw ingredients are everywhere for everything we just need the inspiration and tools to do it. Sure we don't have the Pierra Menta in Canada but we have the Wapta, we have the people! Just like grinding peanuts we can make our own creations anywhere and be truly happy and challenged with the unique worlds we create.<br />
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So to get to the level of the Euros the answer is not over in Europe its taking the raw ingredients in Canada and continuing to create a world where there is an opportunity to realize dreams. I may have fell off the cyberspace band wagon this winter with felling and burning trees but spring is here the air is clear and its time to reconnect with the passion and friends that will push us to that next level!<br />
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Stay tuned for more and if you haven't tried a peanut butter and pickle sandwich get on it!! :)<br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13808987016992949474noreply@blogger.com0